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Flooring Calculator - Tiles, Laminate, Hardwood and Vinyl: Getting the Quantities Right

Running short of flooring mid-installation is a costly and frustrating mistake. Tiles from a second order may not match the first batch in shade or tone. Laminate from a different production run may have a slight colour variation. Getting the right quantity before you start - accounting for wastage, pattern cuts, and room irregularities - prevents these problems entirely. This calculator handles the full material estimate for any flooring type.

How to Calculate Flooring Area - Room by Room

For rectangular rooms: Area = Length × Width in metres. For L-shaped rooms: divide into two rectangles, calculate each, and add together. For rooms with bay windows, alcoves, or irregular features: calculate the full rectangle and subtract any significant permanently occupied areas (built-in wardrobes, fireplace hearths), but don't subtract smaller furniture positions as furniture moves over time.

Measure to the walls, not to existing skirting boards - unless you're not planning to remove the skirting, in which case measure to the inner face of the skirting. For tiling, measure to where the tile will actually end.

Wastage Allowances - Getting This Right Matters Most

Wastage covers cut pieces at room edges, damaged tiles or planks, and future repairs. The correct allowance depends on the laying pattern and room shape:

Tile Sizes and What They Do to a Room

Tile size has a profound effect on how a room looks and feels - often more than colour or material:

• Large-format tiles (600×600mm, 600×1200mm, 800×800mm) - Fewer grout lines create a seamless, spacious look. Actually make small rooms appear larger. Require a very flat, level subfloor. More wastage in small rooms.
• Medium tiles (300×300mm, 300×600mm) - The most versatile size. Works well in most spaces. Standard grout lines provide visual texture without overwhelming the room.
• Small tiles (200×200mm, mosaic) - Classic look. Better for curved areas, walls, and shower floors (more grout lines = more grip). Higher grout quantity required. Low wastage per tile but more layout work.

Counter-intuitive design tip: large-format tiles (600mm+) in small bathrooms and kitchens often look better than small tiles. The reduced number of grout lines creates a cleaner, more open appearance. Reserve small tiles for feature walls, shower niches, and splashbacks.

Grout - How Much You Need and How to Choose

Grout quantity is rarely calculated before a project, leading to mid-job trips to the hardware store for more. The amount depends on tile size and joint width:

• 600×600mm tiles, 3mm joint: approximately 0.4 kg/m²
• 300×300mm tiles, 5mm joint: approximately 1.1 kg/m²
• 200×200mm tiles, 3mm joint: approximately 0.9 kg/m²
• Mosaic tiles, 2mm joint: approximately 2.0–2.5 kg/m²

Always buy 10% extra grout - even within the same brand and colour, slight shade variation exists between production batches, and running out mid-job and buying a second bag can result in visible colour differences at the join. Buy all grout in one purchase.

Laminate vs LVP/Vinyl - Choosing the Right Floating Floor

Both are DIY-friendly click-lock floating floors, but they serve different environments:

• Laminate: Wood-fibre (HDF) core with a photographic wood or stone top layer. More rigid, often better sound underfoot. Not waterproof - moisture penetration at joints causes swelling. Avoid in kitchens, bathrooms, basements. Good for bedrooms, living areas, offices.
• LVP (Luxury Vinyl Plank) / SPC (Stone Plastic Composite): 100% waterproof PVC or stone-plastic core. Ideal for kitchens, bathrooms, and below-grade rooms. More forgiving on slightly uneven subfloors. Can feel slightly hollow underfoot unless good underlay is used.
• Both can go over most subfloors (tile, concrete, existing vinyl) as long as the surface is flat and firm. Neither should go over carpet.